Radon Mitigation Cost Calculator
* Estimates for budgeting purposes. Costs vary by foundation type and local conditions. Get professional quotes for exact pricing.
Disclaimer: Estimates are for budgeting purposes only. Actual costs vary by location, contractor, material availability, and project complexity. Always get professional quotes for exact pricing.
Radon Mitigation Cost by System Type
| System Type | Cost Range | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Sub-Slab Depressurization | $800 – $2,500 | Basements, slab-on-grade |
| Drain Tile Suction | $1,000 – $3,000 | Homes with drain tile |
| Sump Pit Suction | $800 – $2,000 | Homes with sump pit |
| Crawlspace Membrane | $1,500 – $4,000 | Dirt-floor crawlspaces |
* Includes installation, fan, piping, and sealing. Add $125–$400 for testing, $200–$600 for crack sealing, and $200–$400 for fan upgrade.
How We Calculate
Our radon mitigation cost calculator estimates project costs based on system type, home size, and optional add-ons. Pricing includes professional installation with all materials, fan, piping, and sealing.
How the math works: System cost = base cost for selected type × size multiplier (1.0 for homes under 1,500 sqft, 1.15 for 1,500–2,500 sqft, 1.3 for 2,500+ sqft). Radon testing = $125–$400 if included. Crack sealing = $200–$600 if included. Fan upgrade = $200–$400 if included. Total = system + testing + sealing + fan upgrade.
System Types Explained
Sub-Slab Depressurization ($800–$2,500): The most common and effective method. A 4-inch PVC pipe is inserted through the concrete slab into the gravel or soil below. A continuously running fan creates negative pressure beneath the slab, drawing radon gas up through the pipe and venting it above the roofline. Effective in 95% of homes with basements or slab-on-grade foundations. Reduces radon by 80–99%. Fan uses about $50–$100/year in electricity.
Drain Tile Suction ($1,000–$3,000): Connects to the existing perimeter drain tile system (if present) to depressurize the sub-slab area. The suction point is at the drain tile cleanout or sump pit connection. More effective in homes with a complete perimeter drain tile system. Can combine radon mitigation with moisture control. Slightly more expensive than standard sub-slab due to connecting to existing drainage infrastructure.
Sump Pit Suction ($800–$2,000): Uses an existing sump pit as the suction point instead of drilling through the slab. The pit is sealed with a gas-tight lid, and the radon fan draws air from beneath the slab through the sump pit. Cost-effective when a sump pit already exists. Combines radon and moisture management. Important: the sump lid must be properly sealed to maintain suction and prevent radon leakage into the basement.
Crawlspace Membrane ($1,500–$4,000): For homes with dirt-floor crawlspaces. A heavy-duty polyethylene vapor barrier (12–20 mil) covers the entire crawlspace floor and is sealed to the foundation walls. A suction pipe and fan create negative pressure beneath the membrane. More labor-intensive due to membrane installation. Also reduces moisture, mold, and pest issues. Total coverage with sealed seams is critical for effectiveness.
Add-On Details
Radon testing ($125–$400): Professional continuous radon monitor (CRM) testing over 48+ hours. More accurate than DIY charcoal kits. Provides hour-by-hour readings and a detailed report. Establishes baseline before mitigation and verifies system effectiveness after installation. Post-mitigation test should show levels below 4 pCi/L (ideally below 2 pCi/L).
Crack sealing ($200–$600): Sealing visible cracks and gaps in the basement slab, foundation walls, and around pipe penetrations with polyurethane caulk or hydraulic cement. Improves system efficiency by reducing competing air pathways. Especially important for older foundations with multiple cracks. Does not replace the mitigation system but enhances its performance.
High-suction fan upgrade ($200–$400): Upgrades from standard fan (typically 4–8 watts) to a higher-capacity fan for homes with tight soil, multiple foundation types, or initially very high radon levels. Higher-suction fans draw more air from beneath the slab. Also used when standard fan fails to reduce radon sufficiently. Uses slightly more electricity ($10–$20/year more).
Data Sources
Pricing from EPA radon guidance, AARST (American Association of Radon Scientists and Technologists), HomeAdvisor, and certified radon mitigator estimates. Health guidelines per EPA and WHO. We review and update regularly.
Last updated: 2026-02-11
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does radon mitigation cost? +
Radon mitigation costs $800–$4,000 for most homes, with the average system running $1,000–$2,500. Sub-slab depressurization (most common) costs $800–$2,500, drain tile suction $1,000–$3,000, sump pit suction $800–$2,000, and crawlspace membrane systems $1,500–$4,000. Larger or more complex homes cost more. Add $125–$400 for radon testing, $200–$600 for crack sealing, and $200–$400 for a high-suction fan upgrade.
What radon level requires mitigation? +
The EPA recommends mitigation at radon levels of 4 pCi/L (picocuries per liter) or higher. Levels between 2–4 pCi/L should also be considered for mitigation. There is no safe level of radon — it is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking, causing about 21,000 US deaths annually. The EPA action level of 4 pCi/L represents a significant health risk — equivalent to smoking 8 cigarettes per day. Most mitigation systems reduce radon by 80–99%, typically below 2 pCi/L.
How does radon mitigation work? +
The most common method, sub-slab depressurization, works by creating negative pressure beneath the foundation slab to draw radon gas out before it enters the home. A pipe is inserted through the slab into the gravel layer below, and a continuously running fan pulls radon-laden air up through the pipe and vents it above the roofline. The system runs 24/7 using about $50–$100/year in electricity. For crawlspaces, a heavy-duty vapor barrier covers the ground with a similar suction system beneath.
How long does radon mitigation installation take? +
Most radon mitigation systems are installed in 3–5 hours for a standard home. The process includes: drilling a 4–5 inch hole through the basement slab, installing a PVC pipe from below-slab to above-roof, mounting the radon fan in the attic or exterior, sealing the slab penetration and any visible cracks, and connecting electrical for the fan. Crawlspace systems take 4–8 hours due to vapor barrier installation. Post-installation radon testing should be done 24–48 hours after system activation.
Do I need radon testing before mitigation? +
Yes, radon testing ($125–$400 professionally, $15–$30 for DIY kits) should always be done before mitigation to confirm elevated levels and establish a baseline. Short-term tests (2–7 days) provide a quick screening. Long-term tests (90+ days) give a more accurate annual average. Post-mitigation testing is essential to verify the system reduced radon below 4 pCi/L. Test every 2 years after mitigation, or immediately if the system fan fails.
Does radon mitigation increase home value? +
Yes, an installed radon mitigation system can be a selling point by addressing a common buyer concern. The $1,000–$2,500 investment prevents radon from becoming a deal-breaker during home inspections. Many home buyers require radon testing and will negotiate $2,000–$5,000 off the price if levels are high and no system exists. Having a functioning system with documented test results speeds up the sale process and demonstrates responsible homeownership.
How long does a radon mitigation system last? +
Radon mitigation systems last 20+ years for the piping components and 5–10 years for the fan. The PVC piping, sealed slab penetrations, and crawlspace membranes are essentially permanent. The radon fan is the only moving part and will eventually need replacement ($200–$400 including installation). Signs of fan failure: no air flow at the exhaust pipe, system manometer reads zero, or increased radon levels. Most systems include a U-tube manometer that visually indicates the fan is working.
Which areas have the highest radon levels? +
The EPA divides the US into three radon zones. Zone 1 (highest potential, >4 pCi/L average): Iowa, North Dakota, Minnesota, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Colorado, and parts of the Appalachian and Rocky Mountain regions. Zone 2 (moderate, 2–4 pCi/L): Most of the eastern US, Midwest, and Mountain West. Zone 3 (lowest, <2 pCi/L): Gulf Coast states, parts of the Southwest. However, elevated radon can occur in any state — 1 in 15 US homes has radon above 4 pCi/L regardless of zone.
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